A stuck caliper drags the pad against the rotor all day, cooks the brake, and pulls the car to one side. We replace the caliper, bracket hardware, and usually the pads and rotor on that corner that the dragging ruined, then bleed the system so the pedal is right.
Signs you need brake caliper replacement
- Car pulls to one side when braking or coasting
- One wheel is much hotter than the others
- Burning smell after a drive
- Brake fluid leaking at a wheel
- Uneven pad wear side to side
What we do on site
- Confirm which caliper is sticking or leaking
- Replace the caliper and slide pins, clean the bracket
- Install new pads and rotor on that corner if heat-damaged
- Bleed the brake line and refill
- Road-test and verify even braking
Doing this in a driveway
Straightforward driveway job. We bleed on site and take the old core with us.
Parts we use
New or remanufactured caliper, bracket, slide pins, pads, rotor, and brake fluid.
Pricing: Mid-range brake repair; the caliper itself is the main cost and varies widely by vehicle. Every job is quoted in writing before we start, and there's no upsell — how our pricing works.
FAQ
Brake Caliper Replacement: common questions
Should I replace calipers in pairs?
Not necessarily. If one caliper failed from age and the other side is the same age, replacing both keeps braking even. If one was damaged by a specific cause, one is fine. We'll tell you which situation you're in.
Why did my caliper seize?
Usually corroded slide pins or a deteriorated piston seal, both accelerated by old brake fluid. A flush every couple of years is the best prevention.