Buying a used car off Marketplace or from a lot on US-21 without an independent inspection is a coin flip. We meet you at the seller's location, spend an hour going through the car with a scan tool, paint gauge, and a flashlight, and hand you a written report you can negotiate with. We've talked people out of lemons and into good deals in equal measure.
Signs you need pre-purchase inspection
- You're buying a used car from a private seller or dealer
- The seller says 'it just needs a little work'
- The Carfax is clean but something feels off
- You want leverage to negotiate the price
What we do on site
- Scan every module for current, pending, and cleared codes
- Check for accident repair with a paint-depth gauge and panel gaps
- Inspect the engine, transmission, cooling system, and fluids
- Check brakes, tires, suspension, and steering on the ground and underneath
- Test every electrical feature and the A/C
- Road-test and deliver a written report with photos
Doing this in a driveway
This only works as a mobile service. The car is at the seller's — we come to it, anywhere within our hour.
Parts we use
None.
Pricing: A flat fee that's a fraction of one surprise repair. Every job is quoted in writing before we start, and there's no upsell — how our pricing works.
FAQ
Pre-Purchase Inspection: common questions
Can you inspect a car at a dealership?
Yes. Reputable dealers allow independent inspections. If one refuses, that tells you something.
What if the seller cleared the codes?
Cleared codes leave the readiness monitors incomplete, and we can see that. We'll also look at freeze-frame and drive-cycle data that a basic reset doesn't erase.
Do you inspect trucks and diesels?
Gas trucks and SUVs, yes. Light-duty diesels, yes. Heavy-duty commercial diesels are outside what we do.