Oil leaks rarely start big. A valve cover gasket hardens, oil seeps onto the exhaust, and you get that hot-oil smell at stoplights and spots on the concrete. We find where the leak actually starts — valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, rear main, oil filter housing — and fix it rather than adding a stop-leak product that clogs things up.
Signs you need valve cover gasket & oil leak repair
- Oil spots under the car
- Burning oil smell, especially after driving
- Low oil level between changes
- Oil pooled in the spark plug wells causing misfires
- Smoke from the engine bay
What we do on site
- Clean the engine and use UV dye if the source isn't obvious
- Identify the leaking gasket or seal
- Remove components for access and replace the gasket with OEM-quality parts
- Replace spark plug tube seals if oil is in the wells
- Torque in sequence, refill, and re-check after a heat cycle
Doing this in a driveway
Valve cover, oil filter housing, and most oil pan gaskets are mobile jobs. Rear main seals require pulling the transmission and are shop work.
Parts we use
Valve cover gasket set, plug tube seals, oil pan gasket, oil filter housing gasket, timing cover seals as needed.
Pricing: Valve cover gaskets are moderate; oil pan and timing cover leaks cost more because of access. Every job is quoted in writing before we start, and there's no upsell — how our pricing works.
FAQ
Valve Cover Gasket & Oil Leak Repair: common questions
Is a small oil leak a big deal?
Oil on a hot exhaust manifold is a fire risk, and a leak that gets into the plug wells causes misfires. Small leaks also hide bigger ones. Worth fixing before it's an emergency.
Can't I just use a stop-leak additive?
They swell seals temporarily and can clog passages. It's a band-aid on a car you're about to sell, not a repair on a car you're keeping.